Unless your house is very old plumbing pipes are copper or plastic. Plumbing used galvanized steel pipes in homes early twentieth century but gradually changed to copper because it is more sanitary and less prone to corrosion. Early galvanized pipes were still part of open-air pipes in 2010. Early 21st century drain lines are made of ABS or PVC plastic but the main stack leading to the sewer is cast iron. Each of these types of plumbing pipes has a different method of connection.
Galvanized steel pipes
- Screw galvanized steel pipes together. Place plumbing tape clockwise around the threaded end of a tube, insert into a connection, and turn it clockwise by hand until it does not light up. Finish tightening with a pair of pipe wrenches. Keep the connection with one wrench while turning the tube with the other.
- Introduce a joint in a galvanizing line anywhere you may need to separate pipes in the future. It has two halves, connected by a central nut.
- Separate the halves and screw the tubes. Connect the tubes and connect the union by tightening the nut with a socket wrench. You can separate the tubes whenever you have to loosen and remove this nut.
- Clean the end of a copper tube that should be attached to a wire brush to remove the oxidized metal. This is preparation for soldering, or sweating, pipes. Spread the flow at the end of the pipe and inside the connection you want to connect with the brush that comes with the flow.
- Insert smokes the pipe into the fit and joint with a propane torch until the heat flow.
- Remove the heat and the final touch of a lead coil from the solder joint. It will melt and wick into the tube with the fusion fixture.
- Select the type of pipe cement to bond ABS and PVC plastic pipes. Each type of tube has a specialized glue but you can purchase a variety of multiple uses running on either.
- You can spread the glue on the outside of the pipe and the inside of the connection using the applicator that comes in the glue.
- Join the tube with the fitting immediately. The glue forms an airtight seal in less than a minute.
Copper compression accessories
- Unscrew the connecting nut and remove the brass ring in preparation for joining copper pipes for copper water lines with compressions fittings. You will find that the fittings are usually already installed in the tubes.
- Place the nut along the pipe with the thread facing you, then slide the ring on the end of the pipe.
- Fit the threaded end of the tube onto the tube, then slide the nut and screw into the thread. Tighten with a wrench.
Tips & Warnings
- Bolt stack of waste cast iron pipes together. They are constructed with flanges with preformed holes for this purpose.
- Join copper for PVC pipes with threaded adapters. An adapter for copper welding tube, then screw in the appropriate PVC adapter. Glue the plastic tube to the PVC adapter.
- Connect copper to galvanized steel pipes with a Dielectric Union. It has a washing machine and insulation to keep the pipes from touching and corrosion with each other.
- Plastic p-trap shower sink assemblies have compression fittings that can be tightened by hand.
In newly built home, the shower is tucked into the plumbing pipes with a shower drain and waste pipes. Although you cannot see them while you take a shower, the shower drain and waste pipes fill the essential role of carrying wastewater out of the house and into the septic or sewage system waste. Without these components, odors accumulate in the home and water could damage the walls and ceilings. Although there are several types of PVC shower drain soldering solvent shower drains and drain pipes are fairly easy for DIY owners to install themselves.
- Pop the showerhead with a flat head screwdriver; there is usually a small slot in the shower head that can fit a screwdriver.
- Apply silicone sealant around the lower lip of the body drain shower.
- Push the shower body drain into the shower drain pan hole to form an airtight seal.
- Place the shower drain rubber gasket and then the paperboard gasket in the body drain shower.
- Install the locking nut in the body drain shower and tighten the nut with a wrench.
- Look for thick horizontal drain waste pipes near the shower drain. Hold a PVC fork mount to the side of the horizontal pipe and mark the ends of the star shaft on the pipe. A PVC winder is a plumbing fixture that branches out to form a “Y” shape and has three shafts that connect to plumbing pipes.
- Cut the pipe waste section with the two marks as a guide. Cut with a PVC hand saw or jigsaw.
- Apply PVC primer to the ends of the waste pipes and into the wye cubes. Follow with a PVC or rubber cement application on the purple PVC primer.
- Push the wye on both ends of the waste pipe. You will need to install the star at one end of the pipe at a time and pull the pipe until you get the other end of the fork to fit.
- Inspect the fork with a torpedo level to make sure it is rated down so that water is not trapped in the pipeline.
- Measure the PVC hook-up pipe connection to the center of the shower drain, including all folding of fittings.
- Cut a length of 2-inch PVC pipe to the size of the star in the center of the shower drain.
- PVC J-hook Drive plumber support hangers on beams every 4 feet to help hold pipes. J hooks already have nails and all you need to do is install them with a hammer.
- Cut a length of 2-inch PVC pipe to accommodate a measurement from the PVC shower drain shaft to the center of the 2-inch piping waste pipe. Prime and glue one end of the tubing and the inside of the shower drain bucket and then attach the tubing to the shower drain hub.
- Dry to mount a 2-inch PVC all-P-glue trap to the shower drain pipe and rotate so the street 90 degrees of elbow and drain waste 2-inch pipe line.
- Cut the drain pipe with the PVC saw where the elbow of the street 90 degree elbow with the waste pipe. Apply a primer to the exposed end of the shower drain, drain pipe, piping, end of the non-hub 90th Street elbow accessory and the U curve inside. A regular 90-degree elbow has two hubs that Are connected to tubes; A 90-degree elbow street has one shaft end with pipe and another end which is the same diameter as the pipe, which can be connected to the hub of another connection.
- Apply PVC glue to the 2-inch drain pipe waste and the interior of 90 Elbow Street, connect the pieces and then level 90 elbow.
- Apply glue inside the U curve, the outside of 90th Street and at the end of the shower and drain the tubing. Push the elbow up on 90th Street and the drain pipe shower. Seal with PVC cement to drain a leak-proof showerhead every solvent and waste pipe.
Not every obstruction drain stubbornly requires the assistance of a professional plumber. There are few tools that every homeowner should have at hand in case of a clogged drain or toilet. The necessary tool depends on the type of drainage and the severity of the obstruction. In most cases, drains can be removed quickly, although it may take some strength at its end. If you are unable to uncover the drains using these tools, then it may be time to call the professionals.
- Use a plunger as a first attempt to clean a clogged drain. The plunger not only works with toilets and sink drains and whirlpool. Create a seal around the drain with the plunge and push down the handle. It may take several tries to force clear drainage. If the drain does not clear or the obstruction is lower, you may need a different tool.
- Use a plumber’s snake for deeper clogs. A snake plumber is a steel hand spiral wire that is “snaked” down the drank by crank to dislodge the source from the obstruction. Crank up a little cable, aim the auger down the crank and continue to crank out the cable until you can go no further. Twist the cable and return the snake coil back through the drain along with the obstruction. For sinks, you will have to go through the cleaning trap under the sink, and not directly through the sink drain.
- Use a drill cabinet for deep soaking clogs. Auger cabinet is similar to the snake plumber hand, except that the steel coil is encased in a 2- to 3-foot pipe, with a curved end that fits into the toilet drain. Be inclined to make your way right through the toilet drain. Once the head is aligned in the drain, rotate the cable out again and into the drain. Keep starting until the obstruction is resolved. If the obstruction is pushed through, you should wash the drain. If it is unable to push through, return to the coil cable and it should be brought back with the snake.